The twinkling lights of Zante Town dance around in the distance as dusk falls on the chilled-out town of Argassi, in southern Zakynthos.

There’s the calming sound of the waves below us at our seaside table in the exceptional Anadalis Restaurant, next to where we’re staying at the Windmill Bay Hotel.

My husband and I are soaking up the tranquil holiday vibes, as our five-year-old daughter struggles to keep her eyes open after spending hours in the swimming pool.

We’re tucking into a delicious feast of a la carte Mediterranean delights, including gazpacho-sauteed seabass, that’s served looking like works of art.

This is Greek cuisine taken to another level – grown-up dining suitable for families.

Finishing the evening with a glass of local wine, we make the very easy one-minute walk back to our room, and put our little girl to bed.

In seconds, she’s asleep, so my husband and I enjoy a nightcap on our terrace, safe in the knowledge that she’s just a few feet away from us.

We’re on the island nicknamed Zante – loved as the tranquil side of Greece – so long as you avoid the party strip of Laganas (unless, of course, that’s what you’re interested in).

It’s a weeklong pool holiday in a destination that’s not only great for kids, but also perfect for adults too.

We’re here to soak up the sun, explore the island and the food and let our daughter swim to her heart’s content, which she does, while making lots of new friends too.

The recently renovated four-star Windmill Bay Hotel, in the quiet end of Argassi, is stylish and elegant, with apartments curved around its pool, meaning all rooms have a beautiful sea view.

Our room is a ground-floor junior suite. The wonderful design mixes traditional Greek and modern styles, with brilliant whites and flashes of blues throughout.

It’s a large area, with a lounge with a mini-fridge, and a pullout sofa, where our daughter sleeps, that leads to a double bedroom, and an en suite walk-in toilet and shower room with stone basins, sea-green tiles and lovely Greek toiletries. We enter our apartment via the terrace, which has sun loungers as well as a table and chairs – and a large hot tub.

With just 57 rooms, although we visit at the height of summer, the hotel doesn’t feel overly busy. Indeed, the large pool, with a separate one for really little ones, is more than big enough for everyone to enjoy a swim.

And if it does get crowded, there are steps from the sunbed terrace leading down directly into the sea (although there’s no beach here).

We get up early(ish) for a sumptuous buffet breakfast of every possible food item you’d want to enjoy first thing – from pastries and cakes, to eggs and cereal.

Then we jump into our hire car – stopping at the brilliant Tranakas bakery (hailed the best on the island) for ice lollies and baguettes for lunch – and go for a drive.

Our first stop is Damianos Cave, in Agalas, which we reach after passing traditional stone houses, edging along narrow lanes and following a short trail among pine trees and olive groves.

It’s worth the walk in the 30C heat – the views across the hills are incredible, and we learn about the local legend of the defeated dragon who now lives in the cave, which is filled with stalactites and stalagmites.

Back at the top, we enjoy refreshments at a taverna, while looking out to sea – it’s breathtaking.

We then drive to Porto Limnionas, a postcard-pretty sheltered cove with rocks at the perfect height for jumping from into the sparkling blue water. There are lots of sun-seekers dotted about on the rocks, catching the rays.

It’s a bit too slippery for a little one, so we seek shade in Taverna Porto Limnionas, dining al fresco on the terrace overlooking the Ionian Sea – what’s not to love?

The food is divine, and we soon polish off zucchini balls, Greek salad, olives, pasta and fried cheese. Delicious!

We’re in time for a quick swim and a chill out on the sunbeds back at our hotel, before we set off for a stroll into Argassi, which is filled with tavernas, shops, bakeries and cafes, to choose a restaurant for dinner. We really are spoiled for choice – and pick a different one every night.

Green Frog offers dishes using locally sourced ingredients where possible, including its own virgin olive oil.

The food is tremendous – we order a selection from the main menu, and our daughter tucks in happily to ricotta cheese pie, hummus with pitta breads, grilled halloumi (or squeaky cheese, as she calls it), as well as moussaka. With baklava and banana splits on the menu, there was, of course, room for dessert too. We dine outside, in a romantic setting, and there’s a play area to keep the kids entertained.

There’s also Zorbas Greek Taverna, which is bustling and loud, filled with happy diners. The night we dine here, we discover traditional Greek food at its best. Huge portions of baked veggies, meatballs, and a veggie mezze (with vine leaves, butter beans, hummus, pitta bread, stuffed tomatoes and chips, it was enough for two).

And for the nights when you want to get dressed up, seafront Kavo is the place to go. Amelia feels very grown up wearing a maxi dress and sipping mocktails.

Our table is at the water’s edge, with the lights of Zante Town in the distance. We dine on smoked aubergine spread, beetroot carpaccio and avocado tzatziki, as well as burrata salad, seafood pasta and sweet potato patties. Dessert is a delicious cheesecake and traditional Greek custard pie.

We also enjoy the beach at Banana Baya. It’s a vast stretch of golden sand, with sunbeds to rent and a very good modern restaurant playing music and serving drinks and delicious food.

As it’s the height of summer, it’s very busy, but we manage to find a spot close to the edge, and spend a few hours in and out of the warm water.

There’s sunbed service, or we walk along the wooden slats to the restaurant, to grab drinks or snacks. For lunch, there’s an ample menu of sandwiches, baguettes, salads and fruit cocktails.

On our final night, we make the 25-minute drive into the capital, Zante Town.

It’s a buzzing port town, where very expensive boats line the marina. We head to the main city centre, which is brimming with tavernas, tourist shops, ice-cream parlours and cafes.

The original town was destroyed by an earthquake in 1953, but the reconstructed Venetian style is beautiful.

We while away the evening, heading home when our daughter gets tired and before the town is enlivened by bar-hoppers and nightclubbers.

The twinkling lights get further away as we head to our beds. It’s been a wonderful holiday – and I know my daughter will be asking us (multiple times) to come again next year.

Manchester United will kick-off their pre-season against arch-rivals Leeds in Oslo… four years after fans of the two sides clashed in the stands during a friendly in Australia

• The Red Devils will face their rivals in the first of their friendlies this summer
• It will be the first pre-season meeting between the two sides in four years 

By Chris Wheeler for MailOnline

Published: 07:20 EDT, 25 May 2023 | Updated: 07:38 EDT, 25 May 2023